Month: August 2023

Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit

August 8, 2023 – Traveling with Rich & Julie

On Monday, August 7, we pulled into Oleo Acres RV Park in Belfield, North Dakota. This is a wonderful campground with full hookups, but no other amenities at the moment for a reasonable price. It is located on Highway 85 between the south unit and the north unit of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

The national park is separated into two sections by a national grassland area. Some of the other campers told us they had seen wild turkeys in the campground. We did not for the few days we were there.

On Tuesday, August 8, we drove south to I-94 and stopped first at the Painted Canyon Visitor Center and Rest Area. The canyon is gorgeous from this view. 

There is a 0.2-mile loop trail to see the stunning vistas along the rim of the Painted Canyon, and also a 1-mile loop to explore further the interesting geology of the badlands from top to bottom and back up again. With my bum leg at the time, sadly I was not able to walk either one.

A few more miles down I-94 is the south entrance visitor center. This is where I stamped my National Park Book. We watched the 17-minute park film titled “Refuge of the American Spirit,” which introduces visitors to the park and talks about the time Theodore Roosevelt spent here. I always enjoy watching the short videos to learn more about the parks we are visiting.

Just a short distance behind the visitor center is his cabin.

You can walk out to the Maltese Cross Cabin yourself and explore inside or take a 20-minute ranger-led tour for more information. Rich and I like to just explore on our own.

This was a temporary home for the future president when he would split his time between New York and North Dakota. He eventually purchased land and established the Elkhorn Ranch which is located in a third smaller section of the park we did not take time to visit. It is a long hike to the ruins of that ranch.

From here we headed into the park for the scenic drive. Part of the road was closed so the drive was about an hour one way, then we had to turn around and come back the same way. Oh, but what a scenic drive it was. Rich and I both agreed that this was one of the prettiest national parks we have seen to date. But they are all magnificent in their own way.

Rich and I both agreed that this is one of the prettiest National Parks we have seen to date. But they are all magnificent in their own way.

The first stop along the way is the Medora Overlook. The historic town of Medora was founded in 1883 by French Nobleman The Marquis de Mores. The Northern Pacific Railroad had come through the area just a few years prior, and this opened up the region to investors and adventurers from the East. For a few years, the town of Medora grew and thrived, but the harsh winter of 1886–87 killed off thousands of cattle and livestock causing the town and industry to completely collapse.

Medora is now a thriving tourist destination at the south entrance of the park.

The next trail pull-off is the Skyline Vista. This is a short 0.2-mile round trip paved path leading to a viewing area overlooking the Little Missouri River. We didn’t walk it, but Rich walked out to the edge of the pull-off and looked down.

One of the first things we noticed was the hundreds and hundreds of prairie dogs in the area. These prairie dog towns are everywhere throughout the park. They are so fun to stop and watch.

There are several wonderful side roads and pull-off views to stop and see along the scenic drive. Make sure you do them all. And be sure to keep your eyes out for wildlife. There are horses, buffalo, deer, and elk in the park besides the prairie dogs.

We drove down the Cottonwood turnoff and the views were absolutely gorgeous. After this turnoff is the Peaceful Valley Ranch.

This is the only original ranch house remaining in the park. It served as a popular place for guided horseback rides from 1918 to 2014. The property changed hands many times over the years. At this time, the property and buildings are not being used. Three of the buildings, including the house, are included on the National Register of Historic Places.

Some of the trails along the way are the Halliday Well Paddock Creek Trail, the Wind Canyon Trail 0.4 mile loop, the Boicourt Trail 0.3 mile paved path, and the Coal Vein Nature Trail 0.8 mile loop. I wasn’t able to walk any of these trails so we just kind of drove on by.

Once we reached the end of the road we had to turn around and come back the same way. This allowed me to take pictures of the other side of the road all the way back.

We saw some wild horses and I snapped a photo as we passed by.

We were fortunate enough to be there on a day when the entire herd of buffalo in the south unit decided to bless us with their presence as they journeyed across the road from one side of the park to the other. What a sight it was to see all the babies tagging along behind their mothers.

A park ranger finally had to come help get the herd off the road. The cars in front were inching slowly but only accomplished moving the herd an inch or two as they stayed in the road and crossed back and forth.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit is beautiful and I see what the man loved about the park. Stay tuned for our visit to the North Unit.

If you ever have the chance to explore Theodore Roosevelt National Park make sure you take the time to do the South Unit.

Thanks for coming along on the journey.

Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site

August 7, 2023 – Traveling with Rich & Julie

We woke up from sleeping overnight in the Walmart parking lot and traveled about 155 miles to the Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site in Stanton, ND, knocking another place off the list in my National Parks Book.

This site was established in 1974, to preserve the historic and archeological remnants of the Northern Plains Indians called the Hidatsas, of North Dakota. This area was a major trading area for these peoples. There are three distinct villages known to have inhabited the area. They are the Big Hidatsa Village, the Lower Hidatsa Village, and the Awatixa Village.

Just behind the visitor center is a replica of one of the large earthmound dwellings. It was much larger than I expected it would be. It smelled as soon as you entered and pulled back the heavy buffalo hide hung across the opening. I’m not sure what the smell was…dirt or hot air. It would take some getting used to.

If you walk the trails to the village sites, you will see large circle indentations in the ground where the mound dwellings were. Established earthlodge settlements along the Knife River date to circa-1525 CE. They thrived until 1837, when smallpox greatly reduced the population of Indians living here.

The Awatixa Village was the village where Sakakawea (also known as Sakagawea) lived. This is where Lewis & Clark first met her. The Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail is also here and you can drive the trail and follow the signs.

We left here and headed to our home for the next week near the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Thanks for joining us on this traveling journey.

The World’s Largest Buffalo

August 6, 2023 – Traveling with Rich & Julie

Sunday, August 6, we left the Pipestone Family Campground and drove Hwy 29 from South Dakota up to Fargo, North Dakota where we got on I-94. Heading west on I-94 we stopped at Jamestown, ND to see the World’s Largest Buffalo and the Frontier Village and Buffalo Museum.

The parking lot at the museum was large enough to get the motorhome in and turn around. If the parking lot had been completely full of other vehicles though, there might not have been room.

The sculptor’s name is Elmer Paul Petersen. The bull was erected in 1959. His name is Dakota Thunder. He weighs 60 tons, is 46 feet long, 14 feet wide, and 26 feet high. That is a lot bigger than our motorhome.

There is a gift shop inside the National Buffalo Museum. We walked around a little bit, but I have hurt my right knee and just can’t walk much right now. It was too far of a walk for me from the parking lot to the Frontier Town and to the large buffalo, so I settled for pictures from afar.

After a short visit here, we drove over to the Walmart parking lot in the Buffalo Mall and spent the night. We always call ahead and ask the Walmart’s if they allow overnight parking. This one does. See you tomorrow.

Pipestone National Monument

August 4th and 5th, 2023 – Traveling with Rich & Julie

Friday, August 4th, we left the Don McLean American Pie Parking Lot in Clear Lake, Iowa and drove 208 miles to the Pipestone Family Campgrounds, which is right across the street from the Pipestone National Monument entrance.

In 1937, the US government declared this property a National Monument in order to protect the right of any American Indian to quarry the pipestone. American Indians continue to quarry the stone today. This national monument also protects over 300 native plant species – including 70 grasses – of the tallgrass prairies.

I am on a quest to visit as many National Parks and Monuments as I can. There are hundreds of National Monuments in addition to the 63 main National Parks.

The Pipestone Family Campground is a nice facility with clean restrooms, laundry, and a swimming pool. The workers were polite and helpful, and our site was wonderful. Sadly, we showed up on a stormy, rainy weekend and spent a lot of time inside playing cards and listening to the weather station. At one point we were under a Severe Thunderstorm Warning and Tornado Watch.

On Saturday, we drove around to see some things in the rain. We went to the Visitor Center for my stamp and sticker and saw some of the Native Americans carving the pipestone.

Right behind the Visitor Center is the start of the Circle Trail that takes you back to Winnewissa Falls, but I was not able to walk this trail. I have hurt my right knee and was barely able to make it to the Visitor Center. Here you can see an example of the Quarry Floor. This red pipestone is what the Indians use to carve animal sculptures and pipes.

On the way to the Visitor Center there are some large boulders to your left. We stopped by on our way out. The Three Maidens are three large granite boulders that used to be one large boulder. There are smaller fragments here as well. Legend says that the boulders were deposited here by the glaciers. These are sacred to the local people.

On the opposite corner from the entrance to the National Monument is a full-size replica of Fort Pipestone. Fort Pipestone is an 1860’s palisade fort with a cedar log cabin gift shop and museum. Visiting the fort and gift shop was free.

We drove on into the town of Pipestone, Minnesota and found another fun gift shop with a huge peacepipe sculpture and horse outside.

In town there is a historic concrete water tower located in a welcome rest area setting with picnic tables, restrooms, and even a free RV dump station. This unique concrete water tower stands 132 feet high, holds 500,000 gallons of water, was built in 1920 and began serving the community of Pipestone in 1921. It served the community until 1973 when it was retired. It was restored, repainted, and fixed in 1990 and became a historical landmark.

No trip to Pipestone, Minnesota would be complete without seeing the gorgeous courthouse grounds and Civil War Memorial. The courthouse is made of the red pipestone quartz and has been kept as near as possible to its original condition.

The Civil War Memorial Soldier Statue is inscribed on all four sides with the names of more than 200 veterans of the Civil War and Spanish-American War, and joining the statue on the courthouse lawn is a WWII RA M4 Sherman Tank.

And last but not least, we drove the King of Trails Scenic Byway, which is Highway 75, from Pipestone north to Lake Benton. This scenic byway goes on for over 400 miles. It is miles of beautiful prairie lands untouched by man.

Thanks for joining me on this travel journey. I hope you enjoy seeing all the places we are visiting. Leave me a comment to let me know you were here.

The Buddy Holly Crash Site

August 3, 2023 – Traveling with Rich & Julie

On February 3, 1959, a plane crashed in a field north of Clear Lake, Iowa. I was not born yet. American rock and roll musicians Buddy Holly, Ritchie Valens, and “The Big Bopper” J. P. Richardson all died along with their pilot Roger Peterson. This event later became known as “The Day the Music Died” after singer-songwriter Don McLean referred to it as such in his 1971 song “American Pie.”

The most famous song I know of Buddy Holly is “That’ll Be the Day.” He was born in Texas and died at the young age of 22. The crash devastated the Rock and Roll community.

This morning we left our campsite at Grant River Recreation Area in Wisconsin and headed west across Iowa. Sometimes when I am planning a route, I find the coolest, strange and unusual places to visit as we pass through. 

We are headed to Pipestone National Monument in Minnesota, and the Buddy Holly Crash Site came up on my Google Maps. Right beside it is the Don McLean American Pie Parking Lot. As soon as I saw it I clicked on the website and contacted the owners through email. They were quick to respond when I asked if there was room for us to get in with our 38 foot RV towing a car. 

There is plenty of room for an RV towing a car but be aware it is over a mile down a gravel road just to get to the parking lot and crash site. They allowed us to park overnight for free. 

The iconic glasses of Buddy Holly mark the entrance to a trail that is near a quarter of a mile back to the memorial spot. Many visitors leave a pair of sunglasses at the entrance. I wonder how many pairs of sunglasses the family has collected over the years.

As you walk the path, you can see a bare spot of weeds and dirt in the field to your left where the plane landed. It was cold, snowy, and icy on the night of the crash and the plane skidded 558 feet across the field and everyone on board was ejected from the plane.

We were surprised to see cars pulling in and out of the small parking lot all day long. It was a steady stream of people from all across the country wanting to pay their respects just like us, and to remember an icon of Rock and Roll. Some people just park on the side of the dirt road. At one time I think I counted 8 vehicles.

The memorial at the end of the path is worth the hike. This is the spot where Buddy Holly’s body landed after being thrown from the plane. We met people from Canada, Kansas, and Louisiana as we hiked the trail. Some people leave flowers or trinkets or more sunglasses at the memorial site.

The small memorial to the right is for the pilot. If you aren’t familiar with Buddy Holly’s music, or Don McLean, take some time to listen to the songs and refresh your memory or find some new favorites.

The owners of the parking lot are trying to create a nice place for people visiting the site to park. Parking is free. If you are ever in the area, this is one spot you should take the time to see. And take time to talk to the owners of the parking lot, and to the people you pass along the path. We meet some of the best people in the country by just saying hello.

Thanks for coming on the journey with us. Stay tuned for the next adventure.

Effigy Mounds National Monument

August 1 and 2, 2023 – Traveling with Rich & Julie

Yesterday, August 1, was spent driving from the Iowa 80 Truck Stop to Grant River Recreation Area in Potosi, Wisconsin, and relaxing after a long day stranded by the side of the road waiting to get the RV fixed. $700 later, we arrived at the campgrounds.

I wanted to stay along the Mississippi River, but close enough to visit Effigy Mounds National Monument in Harpers Ferry, Iowa. The goal of this trip out west is to see as many of the National Parks and Monuments as we can.

Grant River Recreation Area is run by the Army Corps of Engineers. Reservations had to be made online and with Rich’s lifetime National Park Pass it was only $10 per night to camp.

Our site had 50 amp electric hookup but no water or sewer. Drinking water is available throughout the park and a dump is available when you leave. The view of the river was absolutely stunning.

On the way to Effigy Mounds today, Wednesday, August 2, we stopped at the Fort Crawford Museum in Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin. Zachary Taylor, who became the twelfth president of the United States commanded the fort from 1829 to 1837. Jefferson Davis, former president of the Confederate States of America, was stationed at Fort Crawford, and the Sauk leader Black Hawk surrendered here and was held prisoner after the Black Hawk War of 1832.

On to the mounds. Effigy Mounds National Monument holds 206 known prehistoric mounds with 31 of them in the form of animal effigies. Some of the other mounds are conical, linear, or compound. These effigy mounds are not the result of nature, but were built by American Indians between 850 and 1,400 years ago. I wasn’t able to hike to the individual mounds, as many of the trails are anywhere from one to four miles long.

After exploring the Effigy Mounds Visitor Center we drove on down the river to the Marquette Scenic Overlook at the Pontoon Bridge. What a beautiful view this was.

The next stop was Pike’s Peak State Park in McGregor, Iowa. I do want to mention here that all of the State Parks in Iowa are free entrance to anyone. Some of the state parks are the most beautiful places in the country. Please take advantage of this if you are ever in Iowa.

Known for its majestic views of the Mississippi River, this is a must stop place for anyone. It was a short walk to the platform. The view of the river and surrounding area is gorgeous, and several bald eagles soared above our heads as we stood in silence enjoying the view.

It was a glorious day exploring another small corner of America. Stay tuned for the journey as we travel further west.

Herbert Hoover National Historic Site

July 31, 2023 – Traveling with Rich & Julie

Herbert Hoover was born on August 10, 1874 in a small town in Iowa. He served as the 31st President of the United States from 1929 – 1933. The Herbert Hoover National Historic Site is located in West Branch, Iowa and we were only 30 miles away while we were parked at the Iowa 80 Truck Stop & Museum.

We hopped in the car and drove to the Visitor Center. I got my stamp and sticker for my National Park Book. From the Visitor Center you simply walk the old wooden plank sidewalk to the small cottage where he was born.

This 14 foot x 20 foot home was built in 1871. It doesn’t take long to go from the front door to the back door. With two adults and three children, there was not much room in the small dwelling.

Out the back is another wooden plank sidewalk leading to the outhouse and across the street to the Blacksmith Shop where Herbert’s father, Jesse Hoover, worked.

Next is the one-room schoolhouse built in 1853. It served as the primary school for the children of West Branch when Herbert was a boy. It used to be a couple blocks away but it was moved here beside the Blacksmith Shop.

From here you can walk to the Presidential Library & Museum or drive to it. We got back in the car and drove to it. The Presidential Library is separate from the National Park so there is a separate fee to enter. We chose not to enter the museum.

Continuing on the road past the Presidential Library we drove through a peaceful park leading to the gravesite of President and Mrs. Hoover. It is very simple and elegant. I have never visited the gravesite of a president before and I was extremely impressed with the simplicity of this one.

Herbert Hoover died on October 20, 1964 and was buried here – on this hill overlooking his childhood home – five days later, beside his wife Lou Henry Hoover who died in 1944.

From the parking area it is a short 280 ft. walk to the graves. The path will continue around to a Tall Grass Prairie Observation Deck or you can simply go back to your car.

If you are ever on I-80 in Iowa it would be good to take the time to visit this gem of a place.

Iowa 80 Truck Stop & Museum

July 31, 2023 – Traveling with Rich & Julie

We left home in Ohio early this morning and traveled 358 miles to the Iowa 80 Truck Stop and Trucking Museum. This truck stop claims the title of the world’s largest truckstop.

It was established in 1964, which makes it as old as I am. Stepping inside the doors is like stepping into a large shopping mall. There are shops and fast food restaurants galore. Other amenities include a barber shop, chiropractor, custom shop, dental office, laundry facility, showers, library, and even a movie theater. Who could ask for more?

You can eat and shop and visit the trucking museum. The Iowa 80 Trucking Museum is down the street, but we walked to it from the parking lot. Entrance is free but donations are welcome. What a wonderful display of old antique trucks, modern trucks, rare trucks, and toy trucks.

If you are traveling down Interstate 80 through Walcott, Iowa, you simply must stop and visit the largest truck stop in the world. Overnight parking in the RV is allowed and there is plenty of room.